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There are a couple of things I'd like to make in my last full-day post about the Observatorio del Volcan Tungurahua. First, that as a geologist you never know what you're going to end up doing today, which makes it one of the world's great jobs. Second, that despite my devotion to geology and associated … Continue reading A Week At The OVT: Day 6

Several months ago, I went on a trip to the Amazon. As everyone can tell you, it's an incredible experience. Almost every sight and species you could possibly imagine, from A to Z; all found through a series of screens, densely forested by ads and creeping links, the latter steadily growing purple as you find … Continue reading A Week At The OVT: Day 5

For most of the people around Banos, today marks the beginning of a holiday. A Hallowe'en Saturday, Sunday, Monday holiday, Tuesday Dia de los Muertes; all together, what a pleasure! To us at the OVT, we're at work. For me, I don't see lights or sound or colour. This post is about mud, and murk, and mystery.Today … Continue reading A Week At The OVT: Day 4

If you are wondering how a day involving a swing off the roof of the Earth could possibly be topped, then continue reading. For the record, I'd like to say that a day like yesterday can easily be trumped - provided that (a) you are a rock nerd and (b) you have great colleagues.Be prepared … Continue reading A Week At The OVT: Day 3

I can't really describe how yesterday went; here are three thousand and some words, instead.Tungurahua erupting, approximately 8:00am.The swing at the edge of the world ...... and the man who owns it.

Day 1I'm living in the middle of nowhere! I have just started a week's work at the OVT (Observatorio del Volcan Tungurahua). This is an observatory belonging to IGEPN exclusively dedicated to monitoring the behaviour of Tungurahua, an active stratovolcano whose name means Throat of Fire in the local Kichwa language. Tungurahua towers over the local landscape; … Continue reading A week at the OVT

At twelve o’clock today, a hurricane passed through our office. Curiously, papers were untouched and laptops unmolested. The only traces that it had been were the recently vacated office chairs – spinning wildly from their new freedom. Everyone had been evacuated safely, and when I walked out onto the street there they were, standing smilingly, … Continue reading A guide to street food in Quito

In a rain-washed city just south of the equator, sparks rise and raindrops fall, from budding skyscrapers and streets that steam in the mist. This is Quito: urgent, curious, frustrated. Construction is incessant. Traffic buzzes and hums: buses speed through humdrum life. People chatter and argue, and everywhere direct their looks and words at me: … Continue reading Quito: the first 48 hours

On the floor of my room, nestled among the scraps and stacks of my gear becoming to South America, lies a little stone. Red-and-tan striped, flawlessly polished, and about the size of a conker: this is a red tiger’s eye. It was given to me recently by a friend, to take with me on my … Continue reading Mementos

Welcome!(Or, less likely but possible, welcome back.)Thursday was my last shift at Black Medicine Coffee Company (Here). During the afternoon, my friend and co-worker asked me:‘When are you off, again?’I took a little time to respond. I actually know the answer (Monday!), but the fact that most of my colleagues are unsure of my travel … Continue reading Plans and Ideas